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Industry Technologies

What’s Happening in 3D CAD for Fashion
By Dr. Trevor Little, Professor Emeritus, North Carolina State University & The Needle's Eye Correspondent
CATIA, an acronym for computer-aided three-dimensional interactive application is a multi-platform software to visualize 3D products.
Another 3D product used in the furniture arena is Design Concepts by Lectra. Design Concepts is based on ‘paraboloid’ – a 3D engine that takes parabola equations and converts them into surfaces. In many ways, we have been chasing a final visualization for many years with many iterations along the way.
In addition, there are many software packages for surface rendering. A surface rendering shows the final product in its form and shape including “ease” maps that can show where product design improvements can distribute the correct amount of ease to each section of the product.
Today’s big pushWhy is the industry pushing so hard on 3D CAD? What the new generation wants to see is the product in all its detail before deciding to place it in the line. Simultaneously, the image can be shared with prospective buyers, prospective photoshoots, or websites thus shortening or maybe eliminating the need for physical samples. Nowadays, physical samples are known to take up to six months to procure. A great site to explore is https://www.boathouse.com/collections/custom-best-sellers/products/alliance-pullover-3652e-3052e?view=custom#/customise/42284287?basketIndex=0. Boathouse allows the customer to customize this jacket/pullover from a single image which could result in millions of products customized for the individual. Stop for a moment and consider the power of digitalization coupled with visualization. From one visualization, it is possible to have millions, even trillions of samples. This combines the power of textile customization with digitalization and results in an attachment to the product. Making one with 100% first quality may require a shift in how we approach product manufacture. The order size can now be reduced to single digits or much higher depending on the end use. It’s possible as there is an effort that has three important components: The right apparel, textile collaboration, and easy-to-use software. Nadia Magnenat ThalmannNo discussion can be had without talking about the role of Nadia Magnenat Thalmann of the University of Geneva. She pioneered human movement and drape of fabric on a human form at MIRA labs in Geneva, Switzerland, some 30-plus years ago. She also pioneered the concept of “catwalk with a mouse” several decades ago. These achievements in computer graphics have found their way into everyday practice through the virtual runways of Clo, Marvelous Designer, Optitex, Lectra’s Modaris Advanced, Browzwear, etc. I do have to stress that these are computer-generated images and as such, represent simulations. Simulations are indeed getting better and better, as computer graphics get better, yet they will always be simulations. Their purpose is to have a dialogue with the consumer or retail consumer so that we can eliminate the need for physical samples and get a product that is needed or wanted by the consumers. Fabric properties All drape of fabric properties relies on having an accurate estimate of the tensile, bending, shear, and weight of the fabrics being considered. Some vendors like Clo, Browzwear, etc. do offer technology to measure these properties, approximately while others give an image of what the fabric drape looks like and a Library of fabrics and constructions. This area needs to be much simpler as there is dissonance between graphics gurus and fabric specialists.
Dr. Trevor Little
Some vendors offer “drape” images that can be used to compare fabrics. At the core of drape is FEA (Finite Element Analysis). This is not well understood by traditional designers so approximations and simulations will dominate the path forward. Tukatech determines a “feel factor” value that is calculated by analyzing bending friction and surface friction values in all directions of a fabric – warp, weft, and shear. According to Tukatech, fabric feel factor is a number that a user can learn and then associate in their mind while imagining the feel of the fabric. So, this space in defining fabric properties requires a solution that we can all agree upon as a useful way to talk about fabrics.3D is here to stay. As an industry, 3D visualization is here to stay. Its use has found its niche as a talking image to retailers, consumers, and the firm’s designers. As we look ahead, the first production will be prototype production and sampling may well become a thing of the past. There are some issues An issue that requires a solution is going from a simulated image to the real world. This will challenge our industry. Some firms begin with 2D patterns, then go 3D, then render and fit through the size range. Now, it does not appear possible to begin with 3D visualization and end up with cuttable patterns. For the foreseeable future, it appears that we need to begin with 2D patterns and go the Visualization route and the manufacturing route since there will be a better chance of matching visualization and manufactured products.
Education issues Training and educating talents in both design and manufacturing will be a huge issue. Now, design is in the USA and manufacturing is offshore. There is a disconnect, and it is unclear how to cross this chasm.
Fashion sizes One of the complications of fashion is sizing. With computer graphics, it is now possible to look through the sizes and check “fit” using ease charts that are in the pattern-making software. However, this is in the 2D and 3D worlds of patterns and not visualization.
SummaryIt will be an exciting time as we all embrace 3D visualization. Textile suppliers too have great opportunities to make product elements that can be shown on products in real time. Some of these elements from textile suppliers can be digital but communicating with CAD vendors may require differing formats. CAD things that started 40 years ago are going to power the Fashion Complex of today.
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