Sustainability
Italy Intercepted Over 1,000 Tons of Illegal Textile Waste Bound for Africa and Asia
Italy dealt a significant blow to the illegal trade of textile waste as part of the international operation JCO Demeter XI, driven by the World Customs Organization. In total, 1,176 tons of textile waste were intercepted in 25 countries.
Of that volume, more than 900 tons were from Italian territory. The Guardia di Finanza primarily seized fraudulently exported fabrics as used clothing.
In Italy, 1,030 tons were blocked, of which about 905 were falsely classified waste as second-hand garments. Thus, their shipment to usual destinations like Thailand, Pakistan, and Tunisia was prevented.
The shipments were detected in strategic ports such as Genoa, Livorno, and Venice. Additionally, shipments from textile hubs like Prato and Milan were tracked.
The legal loophole and the expansion of fast fashion
The operation involved 120 customs administrations and, for the first time in 11 years, prioritized textile waste. This focus reflects the growing concern about the impact of fast fashion.
The World Customs Organization warned about the lack of clear criteria to differentiate used textiles from waste. Consequently, regulatory confusion facilitates illicit trade.
The clothing bales, large compressed packages for transport, allow mixing reusable garments with unusable waste. Since their content is not visible without opening them, fraud becomes easier.
Moreover, the expansion of mass production of low-cost garments exceeds the capacity of the circular economy. Therefore, the system generates surpluses that end up exported or discarded.
The pollution generated by textile waste
The environmental impact of textile waste is profound and persistent. When not properly recycled, garments end up in landfills or are incinerated, releasing polluting gases.
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Italy intercepted more than 1,000 tons of illegal textile waste.
Many textiles contain synthetic fibers derived from petroleum. As they degrade, they release microplastics that pollute soils and watercourses.
In countries of the Global South that import used clothing, large volumes of unusable garments accumulate or are burned in the open air. This causes air pollution and health risks.
According to the European Environment Agency, in 2022, the European Union generated 6.94 million tons of textile waste. However, only 15% was recycled.
Additionally, each European citizen purchases, on average, 19 kilos of clothing per year. Although a separate textile collection is required from January 2025, the increase in collection could boost exports.
A global challenge that transcends borders
The global operation led to the confiscation of 15,509 tons of waste, including harmful gases that deplete the ozone layer and thousands of hazardous chemicals. This demonstrates the magnitude of illicit trade.
Italy thus positions itself as a key player in the fight against waste trafficking. However, the problem requires international coordination and regulatory reforms.
Ultimately, the rise of irregular textile trade highlights a structural crisis. While consumption grows, the sustainable management of waste remains an outstanding debt for the global economy.