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World of Fashion

Italian Design Continues to Set Standards: Tribute to the Masters
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
While we are researching this feature on Italy, Valentino Garavani passed away on January 19 at his villa in Rome. He was 93 years old. Internationally known as Valentino – respectfully called Mr. Valentino – he dressed first ladies (both in office and retired), Oscar winners, and the much-talked-about rich and beautiful of international high society in his dreamlike gowns from the 1960s onward. As an entrepreneur, he built the Valentino spa together with his business and life partner, Giancarlo Giammetti. From the successor company, the Valentino Fashion House, owned by the Marzotto Group, Mr. Valentino retired in 2008.
As a designer, the “Sheikh of Chic,” as former WWD editor-in-chief John Fairchild titled him, he was instrumental in creating what became the foundation of Italian style for generations. Another of the majorly influential fashion designers and entrepreneurs at the same time left this world in September of last year: Giorgio Armani (his obituary in The Needle’s Eye October 2025 edition ) had a lasting influence on both women's and men's clothing styles. His deconstructed, flowing pattern lines, often purist yet with decorative touches, are arranged for a mosaic of Italian fashion's world cultural heritage. The maestro left behind a multi-billion-dollar empire as part of his creative legacy. As the third member of the Italian fashion Olympus, which has shaped style and business, Gianni Versace and his work cannot be left out of this list. He died tragically at the age of only 50. Fortunately, his sister, Donatella Versace, succeeded both entrepreneurially and stylistically in continuing his work from 1997 onward, adapting Gianni's unmistakable signature style, which loved to play with contrasts. In March 2025, Donatella stepped down as Chief Creative Officer of the luxury fashion house. In April 2025, the luxury family empire, founded in 1913 as Fratelli Prada, a manufacturer of leather goods and later also clothing, now Prada Spa, acquired Gianni Versace srl. Purchase price: €1,25 billion (~ US$1.46 bn). However, anyone who thinks this all sounds like consolidation, like the end of an era, is mistaken. At Valentino Fashion House, Alessandro Michele serves as Creative Director today. Known for his expressive, narrative-driven approach to fashion, he is now defining a new aesthetic direction for the house following his tenure at Gucci. At Prada, the Italian design identity is shaped above all by co-owner and defining protagonist Miuccia Prada, working in close collaboration with Belgian co–creative director Raf Simons. It is Miuccia Prada’s long-term, intellectually driven design philosophy that provides the brand with stability and sustained international relevance.
Even as major luxury houses today navigate the space between national design heritage and international openness when recruiting their creative leadership—whether to introduce new impulses or as part of strategic realignment—Italian designers remain key protagonists. Fendi, for instance, continues to rely on Italian expertise: Maria Grazia Chiuri, one of the most distinguished designers of her generation, currently holds creative responsibility at the Roman luxury house. Next-gen Italian designers on the rise A promising league of talented creators has recently graduated from Italy's fashion schools with their curricula closely aligned with industry needs. These include, for example, the Istituto Marangoni, with sites in Milan, Florence, London, and Paris, as well as in Miami, Mumbai, Shanghai, and Shenzhen, and the Polimoda Fashion School. The offspring of Italian fashion culture are already up and running or active in the business. Many of them have interesting start-up ambitions, often with strong innovative concepts, blending tech & tradition – elite styles with streetwear. Discover young creatives such as Rosa Auletta, Francesca Cottone, Niccolò Pasqualetti, and Thomas Jurczyk, as well as new independent Italian brands. Or focus on modern, high-quality menswear at Gran Sasso, Sartorio Napoli, and Kired, and on Sunnei with its playful, contemporary take on Italian style. And once again, in the cozy company of international journalists, enjoying delicious Tuscan dishes and a glass of Chianti at the end of a day at busy Pitti Uomo, we are in agreement: “Style, a feel for silhouettes and colors, a wealth of craftsmanship, and creativity – art – it simply is in the Italian DNA.”
Heading for continued success in the future? Despite partial recalibration and recruiting that is less focused on origin as it is on inspiration, Italian designers remain key players. Photo: Prada
Andrea Lardini, chairman by profession, entrepreneur by vocation: “The main task is creating a 3D-corpus from a premium fabric and of course we do have a high perception on manufacturing quality.”
With high export quotas, Italy remains competitive as a production location. “Made in Italy” stands for quality and is recognized internationally. As well knitwear segment plays a leading integral role in this.
Lardini icons: Leonardo DiCaprio for a screening for ‘One Battle After’ in NYC in a suit with a double-breasted jacket showing gray micro pattern. Photo: Lardini srl
Italian fashion also mastering contemporary stylish brand identities: Matteo Miccini wearing Peuterey. - The award-winning dancer from Florence, currently principal dancer at the Stuttgart Ballet, as a luxury brand ambassador.
Italian trade fairs for men's fashion, children's clothing, and textile materials are business hotspots for brands and manufacturers. Prada presenting at Milan Fashion Week
Jennifer Lopez opened her music video “Ain’t your mama” in Peuterey bestseller jacket ‘Talitha’. Not the only product placement ‘made in Italy’ in the hit clip.
Italian luxury brands enjoy a loyal fan base, among affluent Asian consumers too. © Gucci
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