The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
- In the modern, fast-paced needle trades industry, where every day brings changes, new concepts, and innovations, one thing remains the same—the skills and dedication of the hundreds of thousands of PEOPLE producing sewn goods in plants throughout the world.
- As of the most recent data (2023), approximately 90,000 to 100,000 workers are employed in garment manufacturing in the United States. This includes those engaged in “cut and sew apparel manufacturing,” which is the core of garment production.
- Broader textile and apparel manufacturing (including non-garment textiles) contributes more, totaling approximately 325,000–350,000 across the entire sector.
- Employment in U.S. garment manufacturing has declined significantly over the past several decades due to offshoring and automation.
- The last few covers of THE NEEDLE’S EYE have spotlighted these operators, mechanics, foreladies (female supervisors), and management personnel. It has been our way of saluting these individuals and expressing our pride in them within the dynamic needle trades industry.
Visit www.zund.com to discover the latest Zünd innovations in industrial digital cutting technology: specialized tooling for a perfect cut no matter what materials go into your sewn products, a full range of hardware and software options all geared toward easy, efficient workflow automation—Zünd has it all! What’s more…multifunctional cutting systems from Zünd are modular by design and easily adaptable as your cutting needs grow or change. Find the cutting solution perfectly tailored to your needs, present and future!
Contact Zünd anytime for a personal demonstration or visit us in person at Furniture Manufacturers Expo, June 11-12 • CAMX, Orlando, FL – September 8-11 • Printing United, Orlando, FL – October 22-24.
My Point of View
Surviving Today’s Tariffs Climate
By Dave Gardner, Editor of The Needle’s Eye
I must admit that before participating in the May 2025 Atlanta Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America editions, I was concerned about what the mood of exhibitors and attendees would be. What would I see and hear? How do they perceive the current state of our industry and its near- and long-term outlooks?
Our textile-sewn products industry is currently facing a challenging operating backdrop, marked by supply chain disruptions reminiscent of the COVID-19 pandemic – but this time, with the added complexities of elevated import tariffs, increased shipping costs, delivery delays, labor shortages, inflation, and ongoing military conflicts. Read More >
Industry Opinions
The 90-Day Trade Truce: Déjà Vu or Do-Over?
By Joe Altieri, FIT Adjunct Professor, Mentor, Educator, and Trainer
Markets cheered the recent U.S.–China tariff truce, but for those in the apparel industry, the mood should be far less celebratory. This is not a breakthrough. It’s a rerun. We’ve been here before.
Back in 2018, the first trade war “pause” looked like progress—until it wasn’t. Tariffs were eased, headlines were hopeful, and the markets bounced. But no structural change followed. No mass reshoring. No manufacturing renaissance. The global sourcing machine simply shifted gears, rerouting orders from China to Vietnam, Bangladesh, and elsewhere. The moment passed—and with it, the momentum.
Now, in 2025, history is repeating itself. Once again, tariff rates are rolled back: from 145% to 30% on U.S. imports and from 125% to 10% on Chinese exports. A 90-day window. A political handshake. And once again, a wave of relief washed over an industry desperate for clarity.
But here’s the hard truth: relief is not reform. A pause is not a plan. And this window won’t stay open forever. Read More >
Threads of Change – Domestic Reshoring in Motion
By Joe Altieri, FIT Adjunct Professor, Mentor, Educator, and Trainer
- What’s Happening Now in U.S. Apparel Manufacturing? Why It Matters?
- Current initiatives by Levi Strauss & Co., ABC Manufacturing, American Giant, Los Angeles Apparel, Parkdale Mills, Softwear Automation, and FIT: ReshoreReady Accelerator prove that reshoring is no longer hypothetical. It’s happening—though still in its infancy.
- What’s needed next?
- Broader brand commitment beyond capsule collections
- Investment in skilled labor and training pipelines
- Federal policy alignment on textile tariffs and automation tax credits
Call to Action: If you are building domestic capacity—or want to, contact The Needle’s Eye to be featured in future issues. Together, let’s map the new manufacturing frontier, one facility at a time. Do you have a strategy or success story for reshoring apparel? We want to hear from you. Descriptions of each initiative at Read More>.
Reverse Mentorship in Garment Engineering (Part 3)
By Dr. Pat Trautman, Global Expert & Educator in the Pre-Production Apparel Process, Highlighting TV & Film Character Costuming, Product Development, and Technical Design.
After the overwhelming response to Part 1 of this Opinion, we knew the conversation couldn’t end there. Part 2 continued the dialogue on the critical need for mentorship, hands-on experience, and cross-generational collaboration in the garment engineering field. Now for Part 3.
“This isn’t about nostalgia. It’s about survival.”If we let experience retire without passing it on, we lose more than knowledge. We lose leverage. We lose possibility.
But if we truly commit to cross-generational collaboration, we don’t just preserve the industry. We elevate it.
In an industry that is built on precision, legacy, and lineage, mentorship is sacred.
We pass knowledge down like heirlooms: how fabric behaves under pressure, how fit is sculpted by millimeters, and how seam placement affects movement. Read More >
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Industry News
Cotton Street Gallery Will Host 'Seed to Fashion'
By Staff Reports, The Andalusia Star News
Beginning September 4, the Cotton Street Gallery (Andalusia, Alabama) will host “Seed to Fashion: Then and Now,” an exhibition exploring the chronology of cotton, the role it has played in the South, and its special relevance to Covington County.
Cotton is one of the largest crops grown in South Alabama, and Covington County’s rich history reflects its influence. The county has been home to major textile companies that employed many local people, such as Opp Cotton Mill, Micolas Cotton Mill, Alatex, and Andala.
The cotton exhibition is the brainchild of Rhett Johnson, director emeritus of the Auburn University School of Forestry and Wildlife Sciences’ Solon Dixon Forestry Education Center.
Johnson, retired judge and historian Frank “Trippy” McGuire, Covington County’s county extension director Charles “Chuck” Simon, Henderson Sewing Machine Co. CEO Frank Henderson, Red Land Cotton founder Mark Yeager, and Covington County farmer Tommy Thompson are among the experts who will help bring to life the story of cotton and its role in textile manufacturing in the South through narrated vignettes. Read More>
Henderson Sewing Machine Co, founded in 1968, is a global supplier of industrial sewing machines, sewing machine parts, and custom automated sewing machines for the SEWING PRODUCTS INDUSTRY. We have grown by offering customers the highest quality products at competitive prices with superior customer service. We also have a cutting-edge engineering team that designs custom automated systems to fill any need you may have.
Levi Strauss Selling Dockers to Authentic Brands
Authentic Brands Group and Levi Strauss & Co. have agreed to a nine-figure deal for Authentic Brands Group to acquire the Dockers brand.
Authentic announced that it was purchasing the intellectual property of the well-known khaki and chinos brand created by Levi Strauss & Co. in the 1980s. Dockers will now join a portfolio that includes brands such as Reebok and Sperry.
Read More>
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
The Pathfinder M-Series® range of automated cutting machines is known for precision, very high productivity, reliability, and lowest power consumption. All 16 models are easily configured to suit most cutting applications, and, thanks to clever design, Pathfinder cutters require very little maintenance to continually deliver exceptional cut quality over a long working life.
Soho Apparel Group Rallies Behind Trump’s Made-In-America Agenda, Unveils Aggressive U.S. Manufacturing Expansion
Soho Apparel Group, a leading private-label apparel company and trusted supplier to major U.S. retailers, including Nordstrom, Tillys, Marshalls, Ross, Burlington, TJ Maxx, and Dillard’s, announced its alignment with President Donald J. Trump’s agenda to revitalize American manufacturing. Since its founding in 2002, Soho has grown into a cornerstone of the apparel industry, operating from a 300,000-square-foot facility in the City of Industry, California.
In a strategic move to bolster domestic production and reduce dependence on foreign supply chains, Soho Apparel Group is launching an ambitious expansion plan to increase its U.S.-based manufacturing, warehousing, and logistics operations by 300% by 2026. This initiative will create significant job opportunities for American workers and strengthen the nation’s industrial foundation. Read More>
Founded in 2002 in the heart of California, Soho Apparel Group began as a private label supplier for major apparel brands and has grown into a cornerstone of American fashion in their expansive 300,000-square-foot warehouse in City of Industry.
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
NCTO Elects Chuck Hall, President and CEO of Barnet, as Chairman; Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles, as Vice Chair
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, held its officer elections for fiscal year 2025 at its annual meeting on March 24-27.
NCTO has elected Chuck Hall, President and CEO of Barnet (based in Spartanburg, South Carolina, Barnet is a 125-year-old manufacturer of technical textiles), as Chairman and Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles, Inc., as Vice Chair (based in Brooklyn, Ohio, MMI is a global supplier of industrial and custom fabrics and textile components, established in 1997). Read More>
Industry Technologies
The Truth About Multi-Ply Cutting — No Paper, No Plastic, No Problem
By Chris Gilmartin, Automated Cutting Technology Operations, Pathfinder
At the recent Texprocess Americas show (Atlanta), Pathfinder cut a breathable woven furniture fabric on our multi-ply system without punch paper, without sealing plastic, and even without enclosing the bed with side strips.
Clean, consistent cuts. No vacuum issues. No hassle.
It’s a great reminder that the problem isn’t multi-ply cutting — it’s poorly designed cutting systems.
A few facts sewn goods manufacturers should know:• A properly engineered vacuum system can hold even tricky fabrics without wasteful consumables. • Our reciprocating blade cuts notches without lifting, maintaining cutting speeds in line with those of single-ply systems.• While many single-ply belt-driven machines require belt replacements every 12–18 months, resulting in downtime and hefty costs, we have customers running the same bristle bed for over 10 years with minimal maintenance.
Total cost of ownership matters. Uptime matters. Flexibility matters.
If you’ve been told that multi-ply cutting means high consumable costs, excessive downtime, and slower performance, it’s time to see what’s possible. Read More>
Hohenstein Supports Global Textile Scheme Initiative for Structured Data Exchange
Global testing and research laboratory Hohenstein has acquired shares in Global Textile Scheme GmbH (GTS). The GTS initiative aims to create an international standard for handling structured product data in the textile and apparel industry. Hohenstein will support GTS in harmonizing and automating data exchange along the supply chain.
As an internationally recognized knowledge partner, Hohenstein is expanding its expertise in data standardization and transparency in the textile sector. “The demand for reliable, structured, and machine-readable data along the textile value chain is rising rapidly,” explains Dr. Stefan Droste, CEO of Hohenstein. “We want to support our customers and are committed to close collaboration with GTS.”
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The Merrow Group consists of three unique divisions, all designed to support and accelerate the growth of soft-goods manufacturing. One of these divisions is their Wholesale Group: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply. Superior, the largest wholesale supplier of more than 72,000 products to sewing factories across North, Central, and South America, plays a vital role in supporting the broader manufacturing ecosystem. In an industry where precision, speed, and reliability are crucial for maintaining competitive production, having access to in-stock items is not just convenient, it is essential. Superior operates a network of 1,600 resellers that support approximately 70,000 factories across North, Central, and South America. This extensive network enables Superior to swiftly introduce new technologies and products that can significantly enhance the efficiency and competitiveness of soft goods manufacturing.
World of Fashion
The Inditex Phenomena (Part 1)
Retail Best in Class: Creating the Future
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Spanish retail fashion giant Inditex, owner of the Zara fashion brands Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Oysho, Pull & Bear, Stradivarius, Uterqüe, then Lefties (nomen est omen), is the clear winner in the fast fashion space – globally.
Acting smart and fast with a fully integrated business model from digital 2D/3D design/product development over manufacturing using state-of-the-art automation solutions and intelligent logistics to customer-centric distribution in a worldwide retail network of their own stores makes the backbone of that extraordinary success story. The real distinguishing features between Inditex and everything that falls under the heading of “Profit before People & Planet” lie elsewhere entirely. Read More>
Since 1898, Consew has designed and manufactured the most reliable machines in the sewing industry. Today, Consew has one of the largest varieties of sewing, cutting, and pressing equipment; as well as an extensive line of supplies related to the sewn products industry. From standard walking foot machines for upholstery to specialty 4 needle lockstitch machines for parachutes, from long-arm zig-zag (up to 30”) machines for boat sails to extra heavy-duty machines for webbing, Consew has it all. Our machines are well-designed for sewing leather, canvas, shoes, saddles, mattresses, tents, tarps, and sails, as well as jeans and other garments. With offices in New Jersey, Miami, and Los Angeles, as well as a distribution network throughout the world, Consew can quickly supply and service the machines you need.
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Americas 21st offers comprehensive assistance in equipment, training, engineering, ergonomics, and workforce development. Notably, we proudly hold the distinction of being the sole government-accredited Sewing Mechanic Training Program in North America. Additionally, we stand out as the exclusive provider of the TSS lean sewing production system, accompanied by a distinctive line of ergonomic sewing accessories tailored to enhance efficiency and comfort in the sewing process.
Industry Events
Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America 2025
From May 6 to 8, thousands of industry professionals gathered in Atlanta for Techtextil North America and Texprocess Americas 2025, bringing momentum, global participation, and powerful conversations to the Georgia World Congress Center. With nearly 400 exhibitors from 28 countries, the co-located events delivered three energized days full of forward-thinking solutions, cross-sector connections, and the latest innovations.
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More than just a trade show, this year’s edition was a launchpad for progress, featuring the acclaimed Symposium, engaging Tech Talks, the Innovation Awards, and much more. The exhibit halls buzzed with product debuts, technical demos, and the unmistakable sound of business being conducted. Read More >
