The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
April 1949 Front Cover
The Needle's Eye - April 1949
Front Cover Features Fabrics
No series of covers featuring fabrics would be complete without one devoted to silk. The attractive young woman on this issue‘s cover is wearing a graceful print dress made of silk – an ever-popular fabric.
China is the site of the beginning of silk, circa 1700 B.C. the approximate time. The Chinese kept the method of silk production a secret for nearly two thousand years until the time of Aristotle, who was the first European to learn its origin.
Cover sketches by The Needle’s Eye artist show the various stages of silk production, starting with the worm feeding on mulberry leaves They are not quiet little fellows— several thousand of them eating make a noise like falling rain. The cocoons which the silkworms spin, after the washing, reeling, winding, spinning, and twisting processes, become smooth, flawless silk thread, wound on cones and ready for use.
Textile cutting - productive and economical: Knitted, woven, non-woven, fleece, felt - the range of technical textiles is broad and so are their demands on cutting. Zünd's cutting solutions are consistently geared towards processing these types of materials. A powerful vacuum system reliably holds down porous materials on the cutting surface. Schedule a live demonstration.
Bone Fragment Reveals Humans Wore Leather Clothes 39,000 Years Ago
by Alison Georg, New Scientist
This piece of bone from 39,600 years ago has multiple puncture marks on it that seem to have been made by puncturing leather.
An analysis of a 39,600-year-old bone containing strange indentations claims it was used as a punch board for making holes in leather, revealing how Homo sapiens (humans) in Europe made clothes to help them survive cold climates at that time. Read More
This piece of bone from 39,600 years ago has multiple puncture marks on it that seem to have been made by puncturing leather.
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
Industry Technologies
Sewing with Threads, Part 2 — Thread Consumption – An Example
By Dr. Trevor Little, Professor Emeritus NC State University
Introduction
This is Part 2 in a series of articles on Sewing with Threads.
Part 1 appeared in The NEEDLE’S EYE April 2023 issue and covered the basics of thread construction and what is involved in selecting a thread. Also, it explored the consumption of thread from a practical perspective which depends on the type of stitch used.
This example in Part 2 will assume that you read the Union Special Machine Company’s book, Thread Consumption (the standard on seams and stitches was published in 1963 and revised in 1974). Another reference is American & Efird’s Estimating Thread Consumption by product. Remember, you can estimate the amount of thread by unraveling a length of a seam (usually about 3 inches).
So, with these basic tools, we can begin. Read More
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Dr. Trevor Little
SPEC is a full-line distribution company that specializes in all machinery and parts for any soft goods manufacturing.
Kornit Rolls Out New Orion & Titan Curing Technology
Kornit Digital’s new Smart Curing solutions include Orion for mid-level production and Titan for higher-capacity volumes. Both are based on technology from Kornit’s 2022 acquisition of textile dryer manufacturer Tesoma and engineered for compatibility with Kornit’s Atlas MAX systems.
Kornit Digital, a market leader in sustainable, on-demand digital fashion and textile production technologies, unveiled its new Smart Curing and Rapid SizeShifter solutions at TecStyle Visions 2023.
“Kornit Smart Curing is an intelligent and adaptive solution significantly streamlining curing processes while delivering consistently high-quality results," the company said. Read More
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The Pathfinder M-Series® range of automated cutting machines is known for precision, very high productivity, reliability, and lowest power consumption. All 16 models are easily configured to suit most cutting applications, and, thanks to clever design, Pathfinder cutters require very little maintenance to continually deliver exceptional cut quality over a long working life.
Industry News
Hodges International and Tukatech Unveil TUKAcenter in North Carolina, USA
Hodges International, Inc. officially became the 68th TUKAcenter in the world with a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility. This smart factory is a state-of-the-art facility that combines advanced automation to create a highly efficient, sustainable, and productive manufacturing environment. The facility also includes a comprehensive suite of software and analytics tools to monitor and optimize production processes.
Within a 147,000-square-foot complex, Hodges International boasts fully vertical manufacturing capabilities, from design and development to manufacturing of apparel and textiles, including circular knitting. Hodges International has attracted business from a variety of brands, wholesalers, and retailers and has partnered with brands, government, prisons, and national defense programs. Read More
Deanna Hodges, founder and CEO of Hodges International
Lectra Brings Production Back In-House with the Inauguration of its Manufacturing Facility in Tolland, Connecticut
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Lectra Chief Industrial Officer Eric Lespinasse, CEO Daniel Harari, and Leonard Marano, president of the Americas, stand inside the French company’s newly renovated Gerber Technology manufacturing facility in Tolland.
Lectra, a major global player in the fashion, furniture, and automotive markets, celebrated the inauguration of its manufacturing facility in Tolland, Connecticut. The implementation of operations in this facility marks an important milestone in Lectra’s 2023-2025 strategic roadmap as the company expedites bringing manufacturing in-house for improved quality and customer satisfaction.
With this additional factory, Lectra’s complete line of single-ply cutters, including the Z1, Taurus, and DCS series, will be manufactured in-house, enabling Lectra to meet customer demands quicker, while reducing lead times by 60 percent. A larger investment in inventory coupled with a move toward a leaner and more modern production systems will also enable Lectra to provide a higher quality service for customers. Read More
Zünd @ Texprocess Americas 2023 – #LetsTalkWorkflow
There are many ways to optimize production and make cutting rooms more efficient and profitable. Zünd, the Swiss digital cutting-system manufacturer, offers a variety of automation solutions designed specifically for digital textile cutting, many of which the company will be presenting at Booth 1319 at Texprocess Americas 2023. These solutions help automate and standardize cut-file preparation and also support production monitoring and analysis, control the cutting process, and facilitate parts removal, cutting & kitting, as well as logistics. Read More
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Americas 21st @ Texprocess Americas
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Americas 21st will be exhibiting in Booth #831 partnered with Jack brand sewing machines. To develop your sewing operations in the future, you need more than just equipment, so stop by and talk to us about our training offerings for Mechanics, Sewers, and Managers. In addition, let us introduce you to the leaner, more agile Sewing processes of the day, tailored to your needs, either a smaller made-to-order business or a high-volume manufacturer. We understand no off-the-shelf solution will work for your specific needs, so come talk to us about your training, equipment, and process needs, and let us help you find the path to success.
Methods Workshop International @ Texprocess Americas
Visit Methods Workshop International in the Techzone (Booth #1709) of Texprocess Americas and learn how our Predetermined Time Motion Systems (PDTMS) can demystify the calculations of Standard Allowed Minutes (S.A.M.) in your garments even before you start to sew!
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Remember…“What gets MEASURED, gets IMPROVED”.
Supply Chain
Sourcing in Africa, Part 4: Region in Transition — Symbiotic Partnerships Required
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Global economic relations are changing. Supply shortages as a result of the Russian war of aggression in Ukraine as well as the Corona pandemic are encouraging a rethink in politics and business. Companies are reorganizing their supply chains and economies are striving for greater resilience. As a result, Africa is coming under a new perspective as well for apparel sourcing.
Despite all the problems, including compliance issues related to corruption and adherence to social standards, on Africa's plus side, there is a huge contingent of cost-efficient labor available in the sub-Saharan region. (900 million of working age by 2035, according to UN projections; equivalent to the status in China today).
Advancing urbanization, a turnover of the African e-commerce market estimated at US$42.7 billion for 2022, stands for sales opportunities also in the domestic market - in the course of further economic development. Read More
Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh
SCHMETZ...your manufacturer of household and industrial sewing machine needles. The product and service spectrum of SCHMETZ covers a complete range of the individual requirements of over 47 sectors in the sewing and textile processing industry, as well as for workshops and the hobby sector. Placing the highest demands on the materials used, the processing techniques, and product quality, combined with the goal of developing tailored solutions for every application, are both the focus and the mission statement of the company.
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
Sourcing in Africa, Part 5: Real Garments Ltd, Mauritius – Ready for the future
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
When checking the company's website, one says to oneself "Quite ambitious, your objectives and your mission". When visiting the company on site and taking the opportunity for a deep insight one learns, the entrepreneur himself and general management here systematically turn words into measurable results: The Needle’s Eye had a chance to look behind the scenes of Real Garments Ltd, located right beside the fishermen village Pointe aux Sables at the North-Western coast, in one of Mauritius’ free trade zones.
“We may not appear as a posh plant, but we work efficiently and we are growing.” as far an understatement from the words of Akhtar Latiff, sole owner and CEO of Real Garments Mauritius.
A glimpse at the international customer list alone speaks volumes. Among the top brands and retail chains: are Barbour from the UK, Mise au Green from France, Cape Union Mart, South Africa, Danish Wear Group’s label Refined Rebel, and Polo Ralph Lauren from the US. A clear indication of Real Garment’s “favorite domaine” is displayed by loyal regular buyers such as Armani Jeans, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Guess Jeans, Vialli Jeans a.o.m. – Jeans wear.
“We speak Denim”
Committed toward the corporate mission to innovate processes and technology on a constant basis, the latest state-of-the-art technology is used here for both – sample making (inhouse CAD, including Gerber 3D software so far used for merchandising purposes), fabric spreading and cutting (Gerber Technology and Bullmer, four tables), manufacturing as well as the of finishing of denim jeans and jackets in a wide variety of styles.
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“Investment into people and technology is key to success”, stresses Akhtar Latiff. The owner and CEO of the showcase company, like something out of a textbook for apparel engineering with regard to the operator recruitment challenge at Mauritius: “We are glad to take ex-pats on board, but need government support to fully cope with that.”
Experts: Chinese ‘Fast Fashion’ Brands Like Shein Can Exploit Loopholes to Sell Slave-Made Products to Americans
Chinese “fast fashion” companies could be using a U.S. import loophole exempting inexpensive packages from customs scrutiny to sell slave-made products directly to Americans, a forced labor expert told Congress on Tuesday, April 18.
The warning that de minimis packages (those worth less than $800) may evade enforcement of the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) followed similar concerns arising in a report published last week by the U.S.-China Economic and Security Review Commission, which identified the Chinese women’s clothing giant Shein as a company of particular concern regarding forced labor violations.
The Commission report noted that Shein, currently responsible for 50 percent of fast fashion sales in America, appeared to be in “direct violation” of the UFLPA by reportedly using cotton sourced from Chinese government Uyghur slave operations. Read More
US Says Top Chinese Fashion Brands Shein and Temu Mishandled Customer Data
A top US government body has accused two leading Chinese e-commerce apps of failing to properly secure user data and infringing on intellectual property. The report from the US-China Economic and Security Review Commission (USCC) claims two popular digital platforms - Shein and Temu, pose a risk to US customer data.
Shein comes in for particular criticism, with the report saying it, “requests that users share their data and activity from other apps, including social media, in exchange for discounts and special deals on Shein products.” Read More
Shein to Invest Nearly US$150 Million in Brazilian Garment Makers
Online fast-fashion retailer Shein said it will invest 750 million reais (US$148.9 million) in Brazil in the coming years to establish a network with thousands of textile manufacturers in the country.
The company, which also announced a marketplace for products and sellers in Brazil, said it intends to partner with 2,000 manufacturers in the country, which should generate the creation of 100,000 jobs over the next three years.
Some 85% of sales made in Brazil should be sourced from local manufacturers and sellers by the end of 2026, it added."We have seen great success in Brazil since our launch in 2020, and with growing consumer demand, we saw the opportunity to further localize our supply chain," Shein's Latin America chair Marcelo Claure, said in a statement.
The Chinese retailer has grown into one of the world's largest online fashion marketplaces since its 2008 launch. In Mexico, it faced concerns last year over its use of indigenous designs in a top, which prompted it to remove the product.
C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
Sustainability
European Industry Associations Endorse EU’s Circular Economy Proposal
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The European Union’s (EU) objectives for a circular economy have received considerable backing from the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX) and several other European industry organizations. A step towards achieving that is the EU Commission’s proposal to convert Directive 94/62/EC on Packaging and Packaging Waste (PPWD) into a Regulation and the decision to keep the internal market’s legal foundation (Article 114 TFEU).
Although the associations see this as a positive development, they have voiced their worries about the co-decision process’ potential to weaken or fracture the legal foundation of the Regulation.
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HanesBrands Makes Significant Progress Toward its 2025 and 2030 Global Sustainability Goals
HanesBrands Inc., a global leader in iconic apparel brands and sustainability, released its 2022 Sustainability Summary Report, highlighting significant accomplishments in the areas of People, Planet, and Product. Read More
The House of Sustainability: Milestone Innovation — Freudenberg Launches First Biodegradable Shirt Interlining
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
With the House of Sustainability, Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel has lastly created a conceptual home within the corporate strategy for its activities relating to environmentally responsible business and product development, which have traditionally been distinct at the global technology and textile group altogether: Now the Freudenberg headquarters at Weinheim/Germany announces the launch of the apparel industry’s first biodegradable fusible cotton shirt interlinings – the range 46xx, for the Asian market running under the designation 42xx series.
Freudenberg’s House of Sustainability to date already offers more than 500 sustainable solutions for a wide range of applications in the apparel industry. A commitment to full transparency, the highest standards - with a clear vision for the future.
In 2022, the Freudenberg Group employed more than 51,000 people in around 60 countries worldwide and generated sales of more thanUS$12.9 billion. www.freudenberg.com.
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Pioneering product: With the biodegradable, non-toxic range of shirt interlining Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel further extends its contribution to a more sustainable world, reducing its impact on the environment and supporting customers in achieving their own sustainability objectives.
World of Fashion
Five Ways Technology is Aiding Fashion Evolution
By Arpita Katyal, CEO, Roperro
Technology is becoming increasingly significant in the fashion industry, altering the ways in which fashion is developed, promoted, and consumed. Be it the invention of electric sewing machines, or the emergence of e-commerce platforms, the fashion industry has always been at the forefront of innovation.
According to the Industry Analyst Consensus of CB Insights, the fashion industry will be one of the largest in the world by the end of the decade, with an estimated worth of more than $3T. And, today, fashion technology is evolving at a breakneck pace.
Robots that sew and cut fabric, AI algorithms that predict fashion trends, virtual reality clothes—a slew of innovations demonstrate how technology is automating, personalizing, and speeding up the fashion industry.
While there has been much abuzz in the last decade, here are five ways technology has transformed the fashion industry massively: Read More
Americas 21st — all-in-one supplier for Sewing Manufacturing Equipment, Automation, Training, Design, and Services!
Virtual Fitting Rooms Can Be a Double-Edged Sword
Huifang Mao, professor and Dean’s Fellow of Marketing at Iowa State, researches consumer behavior through a psychological lens. Courtesy of Ivy College of Business.
Driven by online shopping, a growing number of retailers have launched virtual fitting rooms in recent years. That includes Amazon, the top apparel seller in the U.S., along with Nike, Macy’s, and Walmart. The virtual rooms allow shoppers to ‘try on’ clothes through interactive simulation technology and texture-mapped product images. It can cut down on returns and nudge hesitant shoppers to click the checkout button.
But findings from a recently published study indicate virtual fitting rooms could backfire on retailers if they assume interactions with the technology are uniformly positive. One of the co-authors, Huifang Mao, is an Iowa State professor and Dean’s Fellow of Marketing. She researches consumer behavior through a psychological lens. Read More
In 2021, Merrow, a 183-year-old, 8th-generation family-owned company based in Fall River, Massachusetts, with centuries-long expertise in sewing and textiles, expanded its wholesale supply business by acquiring the assets and business operations of Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC. Through this acquisition, Merrow positions itself as the largest wholesale supplier of technical parts and supply items for the sewn products industry in the Western Hemisphere. Superior Sewing will be run as an independent company with its Headquarters in Fall River, Massachusetts, and offices in Miami and Los Angeles. It is fully committed to providing independent dealers and distributors worldwide with extraordinary customer service, one-stop shopping, and the most extensive portfolio of in-stock products in its market.
Industry Events
Texprocess Americas 2023 to Feature First-of-Its-Kind: Show Floor Training Program
The Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA) announced plans for an entirely new, first-of-its-kind show floor training program that will launch at the upcoming Texprocess Americas, May 10-12, 2023, in Atlanta.
The training program, coined “Training Takes Time,” will serve as the launchpad for a strategic, long-term initiative designed to promote quality training regimens that start in the U.S. and have the potential to expand to other markets across the Americas.
In addition to training offered on the show floor, Texprocess Americas attendees will be granted an extraordinary opportunity to register for free enrollment in twelve scheduled training programs that will take place in Boston, Miami, and Los Angeles throughout 2023 and 2024. The training sessions, which will span two days, are tailored for mechanics, operators, and facility managers. After the Atlanta exhibition, seats for the training will be priced at $1,800 each.
Brought to life by SPESA members Merrow Sewing Machine Company (of the Merrow Group Companies) and the Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center (ISAIC), the show floor training program at Texprocess Americas will demonstrate replicable and scalable teaching methods for machine repair and maintenance and use that to address the growing need for skilled workers in the sewn products industry. In addition to hands-on demonstrations, the training will utilize augmented reality tools to illustrate how these training methods can help scale the industry and support growth in the Americas. Read More
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Texprocess Americas / Techtextil North America
May 10-12, 2023
Georgia World Congress Center
Atlanta, Georgia USA
Texprocess Americas 2023, co-produced by SPESA, creates an opportunity for retail, brand, manufacturing executives, and professionals involved in the sewn products industry to meet with leading international manufacturers and distributors of machinery, equipment, parts, supplies, systems, technology, supply chain solutions, and other products and services used for the development of sewn products. Held in conjunction with the exhibit hall, the Texprocess Americas Symposium is structured to address the most pressing issues faced by today’s sewn product industry. Texprocess Americas co-locates with Techtextil North America.
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FEDTEX (Federal and Defense Summit)
The Federal and Defense Textile (FEDTEX - May 23-24, 2023) Summit hosted by the Office of US Senator Thom Tillis, the North Carolina Military Business Center (NCMBC), and the North Carolina Defense Technology Transition Office (DEFTECH) connects the US Department of Defense (DoD) and federal agency clothing and individual equipment buyers with US textile manufacturers, textile supply chain suppliers, cut and sew contractors, research and development (R&D) facilities, testing labs and academic resources.
All prime textile manufacturers and textile supply chain manufacturers currently produce DOD, medical, PPE, and related soldier systems. Any potential textile manufacturers that have an interest in learning, understanding or possibly entering the DoD/federal marketplace should attend this Summit. The event is open to all United States and Puerto Rico-based textile firms.
North Carolina State University - McKimmon Conference Center1101 Gorman StreetRaleigh, North Carolina 27606
Furniture Manufacturing Expo
Furniture Manufacturing Expo gives suppliers a platform to showcase their latest products, services, equipment, and innovative machinery, warehousing, technology, financial, and logistics services, for the home furnishings manufacturing industry. The event also offers a two-day educational program developed by top leaders in the industry discussing environmental regulatory policy, the latest innovation, and the 2023 Micro Plant: "How To Make An Upholstered Chair".
The Micro Plant – brought to you by Zund America, Inc. – is an interactive journey created and sponsored by exhibitors and the National Upholstery Association. It leads you on a marked path around the show floor where you can follow each step in constructing a chair. You’ll see firsthand the selection of wood, the frame is cut to match the design perfectly, the leather is carefully selected and then cut and sewn to fit flawlessly, and everything in between! The final step of the path is where you will watch it all come together as experts assemble a completed chair. Two completed chairs will be up for auction on the last day of the show, Thursday, July 20, at 2:00 pm. All proceeds will go to a local organization dedicated to the furniture manufacturing industry. www.FurnitureManufacturingExpo.com
Micro Plant at Furniture Manufacturing Expo
Also notable was that only 23% of respondents admitted having high confidence in their supply chain while a majority, 70% either have or plan to implement technology to support process digitalization, such as PLM, ERP, inventory management, demand planning, supply chain tracking, and logistics management.
Registration for the 38th World Fashion Convention is Now Open
IAF (International Apparel Federation) and SPESA (the Sewn Products Equipment Suppliers of the Americas) are proud to announce that registration for the 38th World Fashion Convention to be held October 22-25 in Philadelphia is now open. We are hosting this 2023 edition of our annual Convention together with our US member association SPESA and with the support of AAFA (the American Apparel and Footwear Association).
After Conventions in Dhaka, Antwerp, Lahore, Istanbul, Maastricht, Mumbai, and Rio de Janeiro, this is the first time in two decades that an IAF Conventions will again be held in North America. This edition in Philadelphia will, uniquely, bring together the full global supply chain, including US, Canadian and European brands, (Latin) American, European, African, and Asian manufacturers as well as solution and technology providers, educators, and policymakers. We expect to receive about 300 delegates, from over 20 countries. Read More
IFAI Expo is Now Advanced Textiles Expo
November 1-3, 2023
Orange County Convention Center
Orlando, Florida USA
The Advanced Textiles Expo is organized by the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA). For a century, IFAI Expo has been the industrial fabrics industry’s flagship show. As the premier textiles event, Expo is the place where industry stakeholders and leaders connect, learn, and make purchases in order to grow their businesses. Connect with industry experts and peers, discover new products and applications, and advance your business with insights on market trends. Registration goes live in the spring of 2023.
