The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
October 1934 Front Cover
The picture on the front cover shows the model factory set up in the window of the Woolworth store at 35th and Broadway in New York.
Union Specials Star on Broadway!
BLASÉ Broadway, a playground of glamorous ladies, wise-cracking columnists, captious critics, and flea circuses, had a new attraction last month. Down at the corner of 35th street, a group of ladies was turning out shimmering lingerie almost faster than the eye could see.
The setting for this new show was in the window of the F.W. Woolworth store at that location. The purpose of the display was to show fascinated crowds how garments sold in Woolworth stores are produced. Display cards in the window emphasized the fact that only the latest and most efficient equipment was being used. The machines installed included Union Specials. Plans called for the appearance of this model lingerie factory in the show windows of leading Woolworth stores throughout the country.
In talking with the manager of the factory where the Woolworth lingerie is produced, this official made the following statement to The NEEDLE'S EYE: “The reason we use a great number of Union Special machines in our plant is that they are the best, and most efficient machine we can buy. Despite the attractive prices set for these garments, we are convinced that the quality of the finishing is unexcelled even by costly garments. We use only first-grade rayon fabrics and quality thread. The reason these garments can be sold at a low price is entirely due to big-volume production, close attention to latest cost reduction methods, and adoption of the very latest and finest equipment.”
Textile cutting - productive and economical: Knitted, woven, non-woven, fleece, felt - the range of technical textiles is broad and so are their demands on cutting. Zünd's cutting solutions are consistently geared towards processing these types of materials. A powerful vacuum system reliably holds down porous materials on the cutting surface. Schedule a live demonstration.
UpFront with Americas 21st
Passing the Torch: The Next Generation of American Tradespeople
Caleb Doty asks: “How did you become a sewing mechanic?”
He finds himself asking this question again and again in each factory he visits. Always the answer is the same, “I was taught by another mechanic.” His next question “Who are you training?” is rarely answered. He has only received a satisfactory answer once, out of dozens of times asking. There is no next generation in training, this isn’t going to get better unless we do something…NOW.
My company, Americas 21st, was created to implement a Lean Production System called the Toyota Sewing System (TSS), a modular, versatile, single-piece flow system. This is what we have done for 30 years and still do every day. But when I took over the company, the question I heard most often from customers had nothing to do with the problems TSS is designed to fix, but rather “Do you know any mechanics?” Most often, a mechanic they had relied on for decades had just retired without leaving a replacement or passed away, or they are a new company that never found a mechanic in the first place. Selling automation, or ergonomic stands, to a company that cannot keep their machines running is useless. There are dozens of vendors who can provide equipment, but who provides mechanics? Read More
Caleb Doty was in the military for eight years, as an Armor Officer with an emphasis on logistics and supply chain operations. He previously worked at DHL Express as a Process Engineer and at the General Electric Company as an industrial engineer. He has heavy training and a process focus in both military and civilian roles. Caleb was been the owner of Americas 21st since 2021.
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
Industry Opinion
Don’t Discount Value of Associations
From the March 30, 2009 issue of the old Southern Textile News
Associations, after all, have contributed mightily to the success of this industry for decades. Above all else, they offer a cost-effective means of improving as an individual and, in turn, as a company. They provide a one-stop-shopping approach to professional development, knowledge enhancement, idea swapping, and, perhaps most importantly, networking. And difficult economic cycles don't diminish the value of associations – they enhance it.
Read Quotes from Industry Leaders
Industry News
AAFA Formalizes Partnership with International Apparel Federation
The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) and the International Apparel Federation (IAF) have signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) underlining a renewed commitment to bring industry players together across the supply chain and across the globe. Read More
SPEC is a full-line distribution company that specializes in all machinery and parts for any soft goods manufacturing.
Outlook into Fashion Future: Between Real and Digital?
In a survey done by Apparel Resources (AR), it was observed that the awareness of sustainability has undoubtedly increased among small manufacturers, but on the ground level, there are very less activities. Read More
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The Pathfinder M-Series® range of automated cutting machines is known for precision, very high productivity, reliability, and lowest power consumption. All 16 models are easily configured to suit most cutting applications, and, thanks to clever design, Pathfinder cutters require very little maintenance to continually deliver exceptional cut quality over a long working life.
Turkish Fashion Manufacturers in Earthquake-Affected Areas Resume Production
Garment factories in the cities of Malatya, Elazıg, and Sanliurfa are running again and the impact on textile mills in Kahramanmaras and Adiyaman is now ‘minor’, according to the Turkish Clothing Manufacturers Association.
Infrastructure in industrial zones was generally less impacted by this month’s earthquakes than in residential areas and most plants are in relatively good condition, according to a statement released this week from Cem Altan, president of the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and vice-chair of the Turkish Clothing Manufacturers Association (TGSD). Read More
SCHMETZ...your manufacturer of household and industrial sewing machine needles. The product and service spectrum of SCHMETZ covers a complete range of the individual requirements of over 47 sectors in the sewing and textile processing industry, as well as for workshops and the hobby sector. Placing the highest demands on the materials used, the processing techniques, and product quality, combined with the goal of developing tailored solutions for every application, are both the focus and the mission statement of the company.
TGSD Fighting Quake Aftermath: 350,000 Apparel/Textile Workers Live in the Region
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
A pilot area of 22,000 square meters has been allocated to the Turkish Garment Manufacturing Association (TGSD – Türkiye Giyim Sanayicileri Derneği) in Adıyaman near the industrial zone – one of the strongholds for both apparel and textile production. Here TGSD started to establish an accommodation and healthcare center including a kindergarten for more than 1,500 children.
“We will be supporting this region by donating containers, and help establish to decrease the social impact by creating a functional environment,” says an accompanying statement. This project and the required donations will serve the ultimate goal to keep providing employment in the region for women as well as men and start manufacturing again at full capacity. Read More
More than 44,000 were killed, 125,000 were injured, and 85,000 or more buildings were demolished or damaged by the partly heavy aftershocks according to announcements by authorities and media. Photo: dpa
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
Sanem Dikmen and Ramazan Kayan, Co-Chairs of the Turkish Garment Manufacturing Association, Share an Open Letter to the International Apparel Community
TGSD co-chairs Sanem Dikmen (left) and Ramazan Kaya: “Having a house and a place to work will definitely help improve living standards and normalize processes in the region.” And further: “We really appreciate all donation contributions to the project, the support and solidarity by local and international partners. Photo: yh-f
Infrastructure-wise, the government has started - even though partly - to supply water, electricity, and natural gas to some cities, towns, and industrial zones; airports are in operation as of February 20. Infrastructure systems in industrial zones are mostly in good condition. The factories are usually in industrial zones with single-store buildings.
Therefore, the devastating effect of earthquakes is less on production plants than it is on residential buildings. However, short-term production cuts are inevitable, the TGSD management further informs us. All stakeholders are working together to restart plants for social as well as economical reasons.
Manufacturing has already started in some factories in Malatya, Elazığ, and Şanlıurfa. In the short-run, the Turkish textile and garment industries will use their excess production capacity built in 2021 and 2022. For instance, Türkiye increased yarn and fabric production capacity by 25% last year with new investments. Therefore, the lost capacity could be immediately replaced by the available capacity in other major cities like Bursa, Istanbul, Tekirdağ, and Denizli located in the West. Read More
OECD in Paris: European Corporate Due Diligence Must Create A Level Playing Field Through Effective Enforcement
IAF participated extensively in the OECD’s Forum on Due Diligence in the Garment and Footwear Sector in Paris, in February 2023. The event, which brings together brands, suppliers, NGOs, CSOs, international bodies, and government representatives from around the globe, was the first event since the Covid-19 pandemic to be held in person, and a great opportunity to reconnect with existing colleagues after several years and forge new connections and alliances. Read More
Nazma Akter’s Opening Key Note at the OECD Due Diligence Forum Paris
OECD invited Nazma Akter, President of Garments Sommilito Sramik Federation (SGSF), one of the largest union federations in Bangladesh, to give the keynote speech for the Opening of the 2023 Forum on Due Diligence for the Garment & Footwear Sector. Ten years after the Rana Plana Desaster in 2013 the engaged activist still misses any fundamental turning point in the interaction between the garment workers and the buyers, especially the C-level management by far is not getting involved enough to make change happen.
“We respect and love you,” Nazma Akmer said the morning of 16th of February at the Paris stage and in front of hundreds of international delegates participating online, “but you must learn to respect and love us as well.” Read More
C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
Industry Technologies
AI-based Business Planning and Forecast
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Technology Predicts - Humans Make the Decisions.
In a market that’s constantly defying people’s predictions, and where the backdrop of retail changes almost daily, the ability to plan based on accurate, timely data is key to securing the future — always provided that the data is available in digital format, of course. The complex and mathematical AI technology enables a prediction quality far superior to human possibilities – even if it is 'only' regarding the time required for processing and analyzing gigantic amounts of data.
The fashion market with its short product life cycles is the prime example of the need for completely new planning approaches. More and more brands and retailers are juggling a complex mix of channels across the digital, physical, franchise, and marketplace outlets. With that said, the shape of demand is constantly changing. Current disruptions along the supply chain reinforce the effect.
Read More
Puma uses Board International's AI-based forecasting and data analytics platform in the fashion market. In the picture: view into the flagship store of the activewear brand at the company headquarters in Herzogenaurach, Germany
Americas 21st — all-in-one supplier for Sewing Manufacturing Equipment, Automation, Training, Design, and Services!
World of Fashion
Epson and Designer Yuima Nakazato Show a Glimpse of a More Sustainable Future for Fashion
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Epson has partnered with renowned Japanese fashion designer Yuima Nakazato and his eponymous YUIMA NAKAZATO brand at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring - Summer 2023 to unveil creations that are both stunning and sustainable. In addition to utilizing Epson's digital textile printing to reproduce his unique and creative worldview, YUIMA NAKAZATO realized some of its creations with the help of a new, more sustainable, and potentially industry-transforming textile production process. Read More
In 2021, Merrow, a 183-year-old, 8th-generation family-owned company based in Fall River, Massachusetts, with centuries-long expertise in sewing and textiles, expanded its wholesale supply business by acquiring the assets and business operations of Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC. Through this acquisition, Merrow positions itself as the largest wholesale supplier of technical parts and supply items for the sewn products industry in the Western Hemisphere. Superior Sewing will be run as an independent company with its Headquarters in Fall River, Massachusetts, and offices in Miami and Los Angeles. It is fully committed to providing independent dealers and distributors worldwide with extraordinary customer service, one-stop shopping, and the most extensive portfolio of in-stock products in its market.
Outlook into Fashion Future: Between Real and Digital?
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Digital fashion to help reduce overproduction
“Phygital fashion” refers to real-life clothing items having ‘digital twins’, which, same as their physical counterparts, can be owned and traded. Indre Viltrakyte, a fashion industry expert with more than ten years of experience shared with The NEEDLE’S EYE that the two-way bridge between the real and the digital will be key in bringing more sustainability into the industry, as well as creating an ecosystem where you get meaningful rewards for using items longer and more responsibly. Read More
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At Grindle Marketing Communications, we believe the right marketing strategy helps you win. Developing it comes from investing time to understand your customer's needs, your competitive landscape, and your brand's strengths, weaknesses, and goals. For 30 years the founder of Grindle Marketing Communications has helped start-ups, mid-market, and fortune 500 companies to conduct research, build strategies, and tactical plans which build trust and differentiate brands from their competition leading to growth.
The Birkin Bag Case — Precedent Verdict Pro Trademark and IP Protection in Virtual Worlds
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
The luxury design house Hermès International SA, Paris, has won the lawsuit against Mason Rothschild — the creator of the so-called MetaBirkins, a series of NFTs inspired by the Birkin bag. The LA-based digital artist introduced his virtual version of the accessory with cult status as part of a project Art Basel Miami back in 2021 and to no surprise caught immediate worldwide attention. With digitalization and extended reality becoming a strategic business component, at least globally present brands should pay attention to this case to see how they may be in a position to navigate through similar cases. Read More
Industry Events
SPESA Executive Conference
March 30-31, 2023Caribe Hilton San Juan, Puerto Rico
The annual SPESA Executive Conference is a key education and networking event for SPESA members, their customers, and anyone interested in learning more about the current issues, trends, and policies impacting the global sewn products industry.
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Texprocess Americas / Techtextil North America
May 10-12, 2023
Georgia World Congress Center
Atlanta, Georgia USA
Texprocess Americas 2023, co-produced by SPESA, creates an opportunity for retail, brand, manufacturing executives, and professionals involved in the sewn products industry to meet with leading international manufacturers and distributors of machinery, equipment, parts, supplies, systems, technology, supply chain solutions, and other products and services used for the development of sewn products. Held in conjunction with the exhibit hall, the Texprocess Americas Symposium is structured to address the most pressing issues faced by today’s sewn product industry.
Texprocess Americas co-locates with Techtextil North America.
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International Textile Machinery (ITM) Exhibition
September 12-15, 2023
Tashkent New Expo Center
Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Organized by Teknik Fairs Inc. & Tüyap Tüm Fuarcılık Yapım Inc.
International Textile Machinery Exhibition, organized by Teknik Fairs Inc. and Tüyap Tüm Fuarcilik Yapim Inc., will be held for the first time outside Turkey.
IFAI Expo is Now Advanced Textiles Expo
November 1-3, 2023
Orange County Convention Center
Orlando, Florida USA
The Advanced Textiles Expo is organized by the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA). For a century, IFAI Expo has been the industrial fabrics industry’s flagship show. As the premier textiles event, Expo is the place where industry stakeholders and leaders connect, learn, and make purchases in order to grow their businesses. Connect with industry experts and peers, discover new products and applications, and advance your business with insights on market trends. Registration goes live in the spring of 2023.
